I've been enjoying the Kabul restaurant scene since early 2002. Back before there was a restaurant scene in Kabul. And too many people don't know how good the food is here. Why? Because too many people spend all their time going to the same 4 restaurants on somebody's "approved" list because they're always being told by their security directors that Kabul is so dangerous. Listen. Khandahar is dangerous. Khandahar is Baghdad. Lashkar Gah is its own ring of hell. Kabul? Kabul is a dirty, crowded, barely-functioning, kick-ass, vibrant city. These security directors don't want the home office in Indianapolis to know what Kabul is really like because then they won't get paid $1,000 a day. So people get shuttled between the office and the guesthouse every day like they're in some work-release program. Can you die a violent death in Kabul? Sure, and the most likely cause will be getting plowed over by a Blackwater convoy. Next Thursday night, have your Mommy drop you off at a friend's house, borrow your Program Assistant's cousin's nephew's Corolla and check out Kabul!
 
 
 

The restaurant reviews below are based on the classic evaluation criteria of the 3 Q's: Quality, Quantity and Quost. There are some very good restaurants that only get a moderate ranking because they're just so expensive. I make about as much in a month as a lot of people here make by Tuesday. If my favorite shooter is taking me out for dinner I'll enjoy just about anywhere. But if I'm scrounging in the bottom of my purse for those last crumpled dollars, the place can't just be good, it has to be a good value.


Bella Italia
Location:
Wazir Akbar Khan. Main Wazir Akbar Khan Road, coming from the British Embassy toward Massoud Circle, turn right on Street 14. At the end of the Street turn left and park across from Shandiz. Walk along the wall toward the Ariana Airlines sign, enter the gate under the Bella Italia sign.
Vitals:
Italian; 0799-600666; Lunch and Dinner Sunday through Friday
Details
Yummy Yummy pasta, fresh crispy salads and good soups. Pizza worth trying. Steaks and dessert too expensive and the plastic flowers are over the top. Watch your bill, the staff gets some of the prices wrong.

Golden Key Seafood
Location:
Wazir Akbar Khan. Coming down the main road from the British Embassy take a left on 13 St, then a left on the 4th lane, you'll see the big sign on the left.
Vitals: Chinese food/seafood; 0799-002800; goldenkeyseafood@yahoo.com
Details: Best Chinese food in town. I love the prawn toast.

New World
Location:
Karte Char. Head out Karte Char road past Kabul University and the Ministry of Higher Education toward that crazy 57-way intersection known as Kote Sangi. Come in the maze at 6 o'clock and try to get out on the street that's at about 4 o'clock. That big divided street is knows as Cielo Street because the big silo for the Russian bread factory is on it. Once you've made the right onto Cielo look for the 3rd street on the right, there should be a sign for Logix Institute. Take that right. Go down a little and look for a sign for DORR Kabul on the left. Take that itsy bitsy left. Go down halfway and on the left will be a big blue house hanging over the fence.  It took me 4 times to find it and then finally had to call Mr. Kim.
Vitals:
Korean food; 0799-199509
Details:
I'm used to eating at Korean places in California so I just know the Korean names for the things I like. The descriptions on the menu don't quite make sense so just ask for what you like and it might be there. A great place, comfortable atmosphere. Nice change from kebabs and all the other usual. The short ribs aren't right but Bul Khogi and Chap Chae are good. They have fresh soy products if you're in that category. But no soju. Tragedy.

La Cantina
Location:
Shar-e Now. Go down Butcher Street and take the 3rd left. Down near the end of the street you'll see the cars and guards on the right.
Vitals: Tex-Mex; open 6pm-late; closed Fridays; 0798-271915; http://www.lacantinakabul.blogspot.com/
Details: New menu, Tex-Mex fusion something. Way good. Still a very comfy vibe. Required facetime stop when making the rounds.

Taverna Du Liban
Location:
Wazir Akbar Khan, 13th St, left on Lane 4
Vitals: Lebanese food; 0799-Tavern (828376)
Details:
The first Lebanese place in town and still a lovely place. Wonderful couch area outside for relaxing, munching and sheesha-ing.

Cabul Coffeehouse and Cafe
Location:
Taimani Street 6 turn right or Qalla-e Fatullah Street 6 turn left
Vitals: Coffee shop/restaurant; 075-2005275; cabul_coffeehouse@yahoo.com
Details: They're so cool they were in the New York Times. Best burgers in town, great breakfasts and evening events like movies and poetry readings. And real-world coffeehouse drinks. It's not on the menu anymore, but if you're really nice they might make you my favorite grilled cheese/tomato/onion sandwich.

French Bakery
Location:
Karte Char. Take Darulaman road out of the Deh Mazang traffic circle toward the rubble palace, make the first right there will be a gas station, down 1 block on the right
Vitals: Bakery/groceries; 0799-316337
Details: I'll never forget when they opened, the first doughnuts in town. They were heavy and greasy but they were still doughnuts. Now it's the best place for a to-go lunch when you're in the car riding around town all day and need something quick. Focacia pizza, fresh yoghurt (bring your own spoon) and spicy meat pastries.

Herat Restaurant
Location:
Shar- Now. Pass the Women's Ministry on your right, go down a couple blocks, look for Herat on the right hand corner across from the park. 2 blocks before Charyi Haji Yacub.
Vitals: Afghan food;
Details: The best lamb chops in the world. Make sure to have a woman in your group so you can sit in the Fishtank Family Room.

For the lazy and/or locked down: There is a service in town that will deliver from some of the popular places. Easy Food - 0796555000; 0796555001; www.easyfood.af; 11am-9pm. Tried it recently and had prompt service and got the food we actually ordered. Other folks are reporting good results as well. They should add a few more places.


The Grill
Location:
Wazir Akbar Khan. Main traffic circle by the British Embassy
Vitals:
Lebanese food; 0799-818283
Details:
Great food, great fresh juices, especially the lemon/mint juice. Best Sheesha in town. Comfy garden. Kick back on one of the couches.

Le Bistro
Location:
Shar-e Now. Behind Ministry of Interior, on the street parallel to Chicken Street. Coming down from the Kabul City Center with the Park on your left, make a right on the street at the end of the park, across from the gas station, then make the next left. If you survive the ride down this street for a long block you'll see the sign for Le Bistro hanging at the corner where you'll make the right turn, then the restaurant is on your right.
Vitals: French food; 0799-598852
Details: Dinner with wine can be pricey, but the quiche are great and a breakfast meeting of warm croissants and hot tea are a good reason to get out of the office.

T-Bones Butcher Shop/What-a-Burger Cafe
Location:
Wazir Akbar Khan. Main Wazir Akbar Khan Road, coming from the British Embassy toward Massoud Circle, just past Street 10, just past the Kam Air banner, on the right. There will be a blue T-Bones sign and Fat Man Forest above the door.
Vitals:
Butcher shop/burger joint; 0700-298301;
Details:
A real butcher shop where they can custom cut to your liking. And upstairs burgers and chilli and steaks cooked to order.

Namaste
Location:
Wazir Akbar Khan; Street 15 between lanes 2 and 3 on the right.
Vitals: Indian food; 0772-011120; info@namaste.com.af; www.namaste.com.af; Open everyday 11am to 3pm and 5pm to 11pm
Details: Best Indian food in the country. Rogan Josh to savor. On the mild side for some people so let them know if you want the heat cranked up. New location, still great food.

Zadar
Location: Shar-e Now, Butcher Street, first left, 5th house on the right
Vitals: Croatian/Bosnian; zadar-restaurant@hotmail.com; Saska: 0700-220884; UN approved Restaurant. Details: I've been enjoying her food since she was on Taimani street how many years ago. Saturday is seafood night and Thursday is Balkan specialty night with all those great dishes you can’t pronounce.

Rumi
Location:
Qalla-e Fatullah. Head up Qalla-e Fatullah Street from Medina Market and Rumi is on the left between streets 5 and 6. Look for the red sign near the curb.
Vitals: Afghan food; 0799-557021
Details: If you need to take that visiting poobah for Afghan food, but don't want to subject them to the usual orange lake of oil, Rumi is a good choice.

Boccaccio
Location:
Main Wazir Akbar Khan Road, coming from the British Embassy toward Massoud Circle, right on Street 10, just before the Kam Air banner. Pass through 2 barricades, restaurant on the left. Look for the name on the tile wall.
Vitals: International/Italian food, pizza; 0799-200600; vilavelebita_kabul@yahoo.com
Details: Formerly Vila Velebita, the menu has changed to be more Italian and the prices seem a little more accessible. The food here is very good, the wine selection good for an officially dry town and the atmosphere is very nice.

Istanbul
Location:
Microyan. Go down the main road from Massoud Circle toward Jalalabad Road Circle. After you pass Massoud Circle, start looking on the right for the sign, the restaurant is set back from the street. If you hit the right turn to go to ISAF/Shash Darak you just missed it.
Vitals: Turkish food; 0799-407818; fethullahy@yahoo.com
Details: So yummy, good prices. My favorites are the Iron Pan dinner and of course the baklava.

Hong Kong
Location:
Wazir Akbar Khan. Across from the Pakistan Embassy, look for the red lanterns
Vitals:
Chinese food;
Details:
Truly authentic Chinese food. Terrific value. Good luck figuring out some of the items on the menu.

Delhi Durbar
Location:
Shar-e Now. Pass the Women's Ministry on your right, go another block and look for the sign and the guardhouse on the left just before UK Sports. Walk down the passageway, the entrance is off the courtyard.
Vitals: Indian food; 0799-324899
Details: This was one of the first restaurants in town years ago and it wasn't very good, but still we went there. The food has improved quite a bit since then and the garden is a nice place to spend time when the weather obliges. Don't miss the lassi.

Lai Thai
Location:
Wazir Akbar Khan. Swing around the main Wazir circle just after the British Embassy and take 15th Street just past the Home Essentials store. Left at 2nd lane, down a block on the right.
Vitals: Thai food; 0700-297557; laithaikabul@yahoo.com; only soft drinks
Details: Currently the only Thai food in town, so you have to suffer with some rude service.

L'Atmosphere
Location:
Taimani Street 4 turn right or Qalla-e Fatullah Street 4 turn left. Down the middle of the block look for the guards and SUV's.
Vitals: French food/bar; closed Sundays; 0799-300264. No admittance after 10pm.
Details: New triple-secret-door security. New management. Basically same menu but seems pretty good again. Service sucks.

Flower Street Cafe
Location:
Taimani Street 2 turn right or Qalla-e Fatullah Street 2 turn left. Look for the Teal-striped guard shack.
Vitals: Sandwiches; 0700-293124; flowerstreetcatering@hotmail.com;
Details: I was never a huge fan, but persistent coaxing by friends got me there a couple times for breakfast. Yep, real bacon. And my favorite Texan taught them to make real sweet tea.

Chaila
Location:
Karte Se road, turn right after you pass the French Bakery. Take the next right and look on your right for the sign.
Vitals:
coffee, snacks and light food; 0799-710519; 9:30-7:30 Saturday-Thursday, 12-6 Friday.
Details:
  A nice coffee shop with internet and TV in a neighborhood with precious few places to meet someone. Best milkshakes in town.

Kochee Coffee
Location:
Shar-e Now; Take Charyahi Haji Yacub until the T intersection, make a right and look for the sign on your left in about 100m
Vitals:
Coffee, sandwiches; Open 8am-9pm 7 days a week; 0774-424980
Details:
Nice garden, inside rooms, friendly service. Monkey on a chain not a nice touch.

Sufi II
Location:
Shar-e Now. Butcher St. 2nd left, down on the right with a big sign
Vitals:
Afghan food; 0799-337193
Details:
Every week in What's On Kabul you'll see the coolest ad for Friday Brunch at Sufi II. Except that when you go there, no one has ever heard of it or knows anything about any of the food the ad mentions. Otherwise a nice place with good Afghan food.

Red Hot & Sizzlin'
Location:
Microyan; Best bet the first time is to go with someone who's been there. But if you must, come from Wazir on the main road through Massoud circle, straight through the Jalalabad road circle and come across the river. Take the first right and go down until the end of the Russian apartment buildings on your left. Make a left at the new shopping center with the pizza place on the corner. Make a left at the next traffic circle. Slow down. The first gate on the right will have a red chili pepper hanging up on a pole. That's it. Good luck.
Vitals: Steak, 0799-redhot (733468)
Details: You like steak? You like shooters? This is your place. A great bar supplies willing.

Springfield
Location:
Wazir Akbar Khan; Street 15, 4th lane left, pass 7 houses, on the left with a red guard shack
Vitals:
Pizza/International; 0799-001520
Details:
I like the shop salad.

Silk Route
Location:
Serena Hotel
Vitals: Asian food; 0799-654000
Details: A random selection of various Asian dishes that get pricey but the atmosphere and service are excellent and the noodle dishes are a good value.

Cafe Zarnegar
Location:
Serena Hotel
Vitals: Buffet and ala carte international; 0799-654000
Details: The dinners and lunches are way overpriced but Friday Brunch is often the only reason to get out of bed after Thursday night. At $35 you may want to try to get someone else to treat, but if not, treat yourself once in a while. A forget-you're-in-Kabul experience. Just stay away from the sushi.

Anaar
Location:
Wazir Akbar Khan; intersection of Street 14, lane 3
Vitals:
Indian/Chinese/Thai food; 0799-567291;11am-3pm, 7-11pm
Details:
These places that do a variety of cuisines often don't hit any of them just right. If you're in the neighborhood it can be convenient, but there is better Indian, Chinese and Thai in town.

Chelsea Market
Location:
Shar-e Now. Down the street 2 blocks from the Kabul City Center on the right across from Kabul Bank. Before Chicken Street.
Vitals:
International groceries;
Details:
Fully stocked international grocery store, they've added a second floor now with the most incredible selection of baking pans and cookware in Kabul.

A-One
Location:
Shar-e Now; on street that runs across the end of the park
Vitals:
International groceries;
Details:
With Blue closed and Supreme's prices in the stratosphere when they're open, A-One is one of the best bets for imported stuff and random household necessities. Easy access and parking.

Hamidi Market
Location:
Shar-e Now; coming down from Kabul City Center, in the new building on the left at the corner at the end of the park; look for the big Areeba sign
Vitals:
International groceries; 0700-275894, shoaibtaimorian@yahoo.com;
Details:
The first international grocery store I went to 6 years ago, they're back in a new location with a terrific selection and good prices.

 


Things are changing all the time in Kabul. And that goes for restaurants especially. Right now I'd skip these places, but as management, staff and/or clientele change they may be worth another look. Let me know.

Maple Leaf Inn
Location:
Shar-e Now; Charyi Haji Yakub Street 3, turn left
Vitals:
International; 0799-321401; mapleleafinnkabul@yahoo.ca;
Details:
The management tolerates no criticism, asking for a medium rare steak will get you thrown out. Literally. But the tuna noodle casserole is just like Mom's. If your Mom is American white trash.

Corner Pizzeria
Location:
Wazir Akbar Khan; Swing around main circle and put The Grill on your right, head down the barricaded street to almost the end. You'll see big misspelled banners showing you the way.
Vitals:
Pizza; 0799-352116
Details:
Pizza's not awful. Not great, but not awful.

Diana Inn
Location:
Wazir Akbar Khan; Street #15 Lane 3 left
Vitals:
International; 0776358271; 0752092287; sohail_nasri@hotmail.com; www.diana-inn.com
Details:
Folks, I go to these places so you don't have to. On a recent visit, we sat down, picked up the silverware and held a greasy fork with bits of food stuck to it. Not just one fork, not just one table. All the forks on all the tables. Clearly the silverware had only been rinsed with cold water and not seen either hot water or soap. If the silverware looks like this you don't want to take a chance with the food so we walked out.

Gandamack
Location:
Shar-e Now; Between DHL and the Mustafa across the street from the secret police office.
Vitals:
International food/bar; www.gandamacklodge.co.uk
Details:
Nothing I say will change the fact that the Gandemack has its faithful following and always will. But still. The drink prices are off the chart, even with today's lousy supply. And those stupid-ass bar tickets. My favorite shooter tucked his book into his shirt pocket and then the shirt promptly ended up in the washer. I pulled a CSI Kabul and pieced $17 worth of them back together. I would have had less drama trying to use counterfeit Taliban-era afghanis to pay my bill.

Cedar House
Location:
Shar-e Now. Behind Kabul City Center, catty-corner from Sitara. From Charyi Ansari, pass Kabul City Center on your right, turn right at the end of the block, just before you hit the park on your left. You'll see a sign for Sitara. On the next block look for a long white wall on your left with a sign for Cedar House.
Vitals:
Lebanese/Italian/Afghan; 0799-121412
Details:
The menu is now combined with Lebanon Palace, a few items from the former Bella Noche and some afghan selections. None of them very good.

Carlitos
Location:
Wazir Akbar Khan. Heetal Hotel. At the bottom of the swimming pool hill at the end of Street 14.
Vitals: Mexican food; 0799-159697; www.heetal.com
Details: Just not any good.

Wazir's
Location:
Wazir Akbar Khan. Heetal Hotel. At the bottom of the swimming pool hill at the end of Street 14.
Vitals: International food; 0799-159697; www.heetal.com
Details: Just not any good. Seriously.

Popolano
Location:
Shar-e Now; Toilet Street between Charyi Ansari and Ministry of Interior Street
Vitals:
Pizza;
Details:
No. Just No.

Shandiz
Location:
Wazir Akbar Khan; Pakistan Embassy Street, down before the barricades on the left
Vitals:
Iranian; 0799-342928
Details:
I used to dream about the lamb chops on a sword here when they first opened years ago. Now it's just got a weird vibe.

 


  • Chai Khana - Serena Hotel coffee shop
  • Carwan Sarai - carwansarai@yahoo.com; Shar-e Now. Across from the Ministry of Interior.
  • Kabul City Center Coffee Shop - coffee; in Kabul City Center at Charyahi Ansari
  • Everest Pizza - 0799-317979; Wazir Akbar Khan.
  • Shamiyana - 020-2203131; Safi Landmark Hotel, Shar-e Now, Charyi Ansari
  • Sky Line - 020-2203131;Safi Landmark Hotel, Shar-e Now, Charyi Ansari
  • H.B.S. Khajeyi - Shar-e Now; across from the park cinema
  • Khosha - Afghan/International food; 0799-888999; top floor of Golden Star Hotel; Charyi Haji Yacub
  • Camp Eggers DFAC - Military food; end of Pakistani Embassy street across from AIB Bank
  • ISAF Dining Hall - Military food; Shash Darak next to US Embassy
  • Ciano's - Italian groceries
  • RA Bakery- baked goods; 0799-386032
  • Intercontinental - Baghe Bala; several Afghan restaurants
     


Kabul can be a pretty transitory place and when you've been here 6 years you see a lot of restaurants come and go. Some we're sad to see go, some just needed to be gone. Let me know if I've forgotten any you remember.

  • Samarkand
  • Tabasco's
  • B's Place
  • Blue PX and Coffee Shop
  • La Fontaine
  • Royal Thai
  • The Ministry
  • Crazy 8
  • Chez Ivana
  • Georgia Peach
  • Coco Cobana
  • Coco Loco
  • Elbow Room
  • Bahay Kubu
  • Deutcher Hof
  • Bella Noche
  • Afghan Fried Chicken
  • Baku
  • Escalades
  • Jalsimar
  • Four Seasons
  • Supreme PX
  • Oscar's
  • Manila's Finest
  • Blue Bayou
  • Afghan Food Court
  • Kolba International

Did I miss a place? Got a question, comment or rude opinion? Send it to Rosey.
Reviews last updated 13 July 2008.